As I begin to type this blog
post I am sitting next to, what I would guess to be, a 70-year-old Vietnamese
woman who has fervently insisted I put my laptop on the small table we share in
our 4-person berth, as we all ride the Reunification Express. Her reasoning, from what I was able to deduce
from hand signs and vocal inflection, is she does not want the laptop leaving
temporary marks on my mid-thigh, possibly because it is uncomfortable and
unnecessary when there is a table nearby.
Besides a striking resemblance, her incredibly kind and warm-hearted
gestures remind me of a woman I once interacted with in the past, of approximately
the same age and from a city very close to the one I am leaving now. A touching piece of nostalgia as I prepare
for a 27-hour train ride to Hanoi in the north, which marks the end of my
journey in Vietnam. The Reunification Express, as previously mentioned, is what
is contemporarily referred to as the train line that connects Hanoi and Saigon
(north and south) and was constructed by the French in 1936. It is known to be
a powerful experience that introduces one to the beauty of Vietnam’s
countryside and more rural areas.
The last two weeks spent in
Vietnam have, without a doubt, been an entirely new and fresh experience. Traveling
in China has been nearly effortless in comparison, as Vietnam has certainly posed
it’s own challenges due to an inevitable language barrier. However, first and foremost, I’d like to make
sure I express my unending thankfulness for being fortunate enough to see such
a wonderful country. I will discuss this
later in the post, but in short, Vietnam and its people have impressed me
beyond all imagination.
The Places:
My journey began in China’s
southern city, Nanning, largely used by travelers who are waiting for their
Vietnamese visas to process before they start to travel south. Nanning itself is a city with only a few
places worth visiting, however in contrast to what one can do it Vietnam it is
the most boring city in the world. The highlight of my visit and stay in Nanning was meeting a local couple who took me around the entire city in their car for the day and afterwards treated me to two dinners and late-night snacks. I'll tell you...the people I meet are always so generous and friendly beyond imagination. After
four nights in Nanning, I headed off to cross the border to Vietnam. Here is a video worth watching at Nanning's night market:
This guy has some mad skills...and he's playing one of my favorite songs ever haha!
My first stop in Vietnam was
the northern capital city of Hanoi. To
reach Hanoi from China I chose to take an 8-hour overnight bus ride that would
place me close to the center of the city upon arrival. As most of my travels seem to pan out, I met
a man on the bus ride who was Chinese-born, but spoke both fluent Chinese and
Vietnamese. After I arrived in Hanoi, he
assisted me in sorting out where to lodge, aided me in exchanging money, and offered
any other help I needed. He also treated me to dinner and spent time explaining how the Vietnamese people are culturally and some of their differences in relation to the Chinese. Who would have thought I would be learning about the Vietnamese from a man speaking Chinese. Crazy. In Hanoi, I
only planned to stay a few days due to the “cold” weather and my strong urge to enjoy
the beaches and warm weather of southern Vietnam. I stayed in a small hostel for two
nights and enjoyed the city by visiting a few museums and aimlessly walking
around seeing, smelling, hearing, tasting and touching my first impressions of
Vietnam as a country. Hanoi seemed to
have the same feeling as all large capitals, so it suffices to say the city
didn’t leave an incredibly deep impression.
However, I was excited to be there nonetheless. In this post I hope to share more videos of
where I went, since I believe it to be a better representation of what my
experiences were actually like. Here is one video and some pictures from Hanoi:
On the back of a motorbike
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| Typical street in Hanoi with loads of motorbikes |
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| The woman carrying the two baskets on her shoulder is entirely representative of Vietnam. The Vietnamese say the geographic shape of their country resembles a woman carrying two baskets on her shoulder. |
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| Hoan Kiem Lake "Lake of the Restored Sword" in Hanoi's historical center |
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| Turtle Tower in the middle of the lake |
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| Small structure with Chinese characters on it that people seemed to be interested in...so I took a picture, too. |
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| They have a lot of these trees in Vietnam, convoluted and intertwined from the roots up. I think they're fascinating. |
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| Went to a temple that clearly had a lot of Chinese influence. This was located next to the lake in the city center. Called "Temple of the Jade Mountain" |
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| View of the lake from the temple |
Following are random shots from around the city:
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| I did not dare go in...in fear of being disappointed as to how they feel we are represented by our "things" |
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| You know, if I could balance a heavy basket full of goods on my head, I might just stand on the street with no shoes just as she is and let people take my picture. |
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| Vietnamese street cleaner. |
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| One of the first places I visited was the museum of fine arts. Certain areas were of litte interest to me, however some of the statues were amazing, in my opinion. See below. |
The Temple of Literature is a prominent historical spot in Vietnam, as it was the first university and used to educate the elite class in ancient Vietnam (1070 AD). After be destroyed many times and wrecked due to wars and other causes, it still stands today as one iconic symbol of the country. It is featured on the back of the 100,000 Vietnamese bill. A few pictures below:
Video of the above picture:
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum:
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| Random piece of abstract art. |
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| Some of the weapons and items used in the Vietnam War |
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| I read the description of this piece of art and apparently it represents a vibrant new, youthful, generation of the world. |
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| "Uncle Ho" as he is called in Vietnam. |
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| Coffee in Vietnam...best I have ever had. Had one nearly every day while traveling. |
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| During the new year celebrations you will often see shops like this full of various new year related goods. |
While waiting for the bus
departing Hanoi, I befriended a 20-year-old Chinese guy named Bailey. Bailey’s itinerary looked almost identical to
mine, so it was apparent to both of us we would be traveling together. Also, on the same bus I also befriended a guy from
L.A., named Eddie, and he composed the third person of our now newly formed
group. At this point traveling alone
turned into traveling with friends. The
Chinese would call this type of relationship缘分 (yuan-fen) or predestined relationship that brings people together. So, from Hanoi we all set out on the same bus
to a city called Hue. Hue represents an
older part of Vietnam, as it used to be the capital from the years 1802 to
1945. You can see some of the pictures
below to get a feel of what the city was like.
We only spent two days here, as that was more than enough to see the
city and experience what it has to offer.
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| Sleeper buses are a popular way of travel in Vietnam, for foreigners. These are called "open tours" meaning you can get on the bus and it will stop at certain cities, then allowing you to stay at any of those cities for an indefinite amount of time. You simply need to book your ticket for the next bus a day in advance and you are off to your next destination. Incredibly convenient! |
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| To date, the best hostel I have stayed at. Hue City Hostel was full of great people, a relaxed environment and I even made new friends with the staff. Definitely going back in the summer! |
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| Any guesses on what everyone was watching? Super Bowl haha! |
Below are different parts of Hue city:
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| The entrance to Hue's Forbidden City, which was very similar to China's. Bailey (Chinese guy I met) said the Vietnamese apparently copied the Chinese. Regardless, it was structurally impressive and beautiful inside. |
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| After so much hard work doing nothing, we decided to have some delicious Vietnamese coffee with condensed (sweet) milk. |
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| Bailey! |
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| Very common way to get around the city. Not quite sure how honest the prices are, but sure looks comfortable and offers a great view. |
The next stop, after Hue, was the city of Hoi An. Hoi An is a world heritage site and is a seaside town that offers a nice blend of foreign and local influences. Just a few pictures from this place, as most of our time was spent riding motorbikes in the city (very small) and drinking coffee or $0.20 beers.
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| Not the clearest picture but check out the intricacy of this tree. |
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| This picture is priceless, to me. They have a nice little tune that is played when the trash collectors come around. It reminded me of our ice cream truck melody from when I was a young kid! |
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| Beautiful countryside of Hoi An. |
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| Bailey...is so...Chinese haha He's got his inflatable head cushion, camera, small fanny pack and he was wearing capris. Love the guy. |
The following pictures are from a small tour we took in Hoi An. It took us to a few different locations, including a small rural island inhabited by various hand carvers.
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| Amazing. |
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| On the way to the Mỹ Sơn ruins! |
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| Waiting for the electric car to pick us up, I decided to get a picture of this dated military truck. |
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| Our tour guide. He actually spoke some Chinese, with a very heavy but understandable Vietnamese accent. |
Brief description of the Mỹ Sơn ruins. They were originally a place of Hindu worship to the god Shiva and stand as the longest inhabited archaeological site in Indochina. Unfortunately (really, very unfortunate), they were vastly destroyed by U.S. carpet bombs during the war. An extremely gorgeous place that provides a strong vibe of peace and tranquility. We are lucky we still have the ruins to enjoy its beauty.
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| Enlarge this picture if you can. I saw a lizard eating a dragonfly and tried to get a picture of it. You can just barely see it! |
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| Inside one of the buildings |
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| Good amount of pretty flora in Vietnam. |
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| I should pat myself on the back for getting so close to this obviously bred-to-eat-young-men-around-24-years-of-age spider. Crazy web structure! |
On the way to the small island inhabited my hand carvers!
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| During lunch they gave us some vegetarian food and a banana...or I guess a Vietnamese banana. SO small! |
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| Great advertising. Not only would I love diamond rain, but everyone loves the U.S. right? Sarcasm intended. |
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| What better way to get across the water then to load all your motorbikes on a boat and sail away! |
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| Entrance to the small island. |
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| One of my favorite pictures. |
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| This man was unbelievably talented. All hand-carved from a single piece of wood. If anyone wants to get me a present, this kind of item will do. |
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| This is when I strayed away from the group and started taking pictures of different parts of the island. |
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| Seconds before this picture was taken, this woman gave me a huge glimmering smile as I took her picture. =) |
Other random shots from around the city of Hoi An:
And so begins the exploration of the city's countryside on motorbikes:
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| I was one small step away from slipping on these pieces of bamboos and being pierced -_- |
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| Thought this was a cool picture of a man walking on the road with the smoke at his back. |
One of the most memorable cities I was able to visit is called "Nha Trang". Now, this place is widely regarded as very touristy, however I was taken in by locals who have a hotel by the beach. In college, I was fortunate in making friends with a girl named Haley, who is from Nha Trang and spent most of her life growing up there. When we first met, over four years ago, I told her how I had always wanted to visit Vietnam and she said she had a place for me to stay. So, when she heard I was visiting her hometown she let me stay in her hotel! Pictures of my hotel, the view and the surrounding area below:
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| Gorgeous sunset when I first arrived. |
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| My view. |
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| Theater |
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| Truly gorgeous beaches, hot weather and nice water. |
Haley's mom was incredibly hospitable and treated me to a day tour, on boat, of four surrounding islands:
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| Some cool Vietnamese men fishing. What a life. |
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| At the aquarium! |
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| This fish resembled a rock. |
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| The water was sapphire blue, less salty than the ocean in the U.S. and pleasant to swim in. |
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| I was having the time of my life cruising on the boat, working up a tan and smelling the fresh air. Reminds me of the house boat trip I went on as a kid with Mason's family! |
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| Our tour was called the Funky Monkey tour, primarily because the guys on the boat had a band called Funky Monkey! They played a little bit before technical difficulties ensued. |
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| My future home! |
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| Eddie hanging out on the beach. Living the life! |
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| Fruit at the end of the tour. Delicious. |
Now, as I previously mentioned the Reunification Express is a train line that connects the northern and southern regions of Vietnam. Below you can see a video of the countryside and see some of the people I interacted with while aboard the train. Nothing like meeting locals and being confined to a small space with them. Truly the best way to learn and understand different cultures.
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| Most adorable little girl I have ever seen. |
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| Mrs. Feng sitting on her bed talking to her husband, I believe. |
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| Chinese hot and cold water dispenser, which has a place for cups to rest for the next user. Never seen this in China and certainly have never seen free cups in China. |
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| They treated me to some delicious Vietnamese oranges. |
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| =) |
End of pictures!
The country, the people and the food:
In all honesty, I have undoubtedly
left a part of my heart in Vietnam. One
of the most recognizable differences between Vietnam and China is the cultural
differences that have arisen in Vietnam due to Western imperialism and
influence. The Vietnamese people are far
more laid-back, approachable, less formal, and are some of the most cheerful
and sarcastic people I have ever met. They
are able to “invade your personal bubble” but do it in a way that makes you
feel entirely comfortable and welcoming.
To this day, I can surely say that the Vietnamese I encountered on this
trip are the people I feel most comfortable with and, if I had to choose,
enjoyed being around more than any other.
I found myself constantly recognizing small, but far more progressive
qualities of the Vietnamese when compared to the Chinese. For example, the small things like not being
shy when speaking broken English, starting conversations even when neither of
us can understand each other, and even just having toilet paper in the
bathrooms (something that nearly never happens in China even though there is
always a toilet paper roll holder in the bathroom) makes the living situation
more enjoyable. Nearly every person I
met gave me a sense of security and a warm welcoming smile, even when they were
older and clearly aware I am from America. The
Vietnamese seem to be a people who are truly happy with the way their lives
have worked out and seem to be very accepting.
I saw farmers, owners of large and very small shops, babies, teenagers,
adults and grandmas and grandpas, and would simply smile and say hello, and
received a brimming smile as they returned a greeting.
Vietnam, as most all know, has experienced a difficult past that is surely not forgotten by some of the people still living there today. However, I did not once encounter a sense of distaste or blame from a single Vietnamese person while I was in the country. Everyone was entirely welcoming and pleasant. I was able to enjoy a new culture and lifestyle, without the burden of a haunting past that without a doubt is still in the memories of some Vietnamese. While in Vietnam, the main food item I consumed were $0.60 sandwiches on fresh baguettes, which included cheese, mixed greens, cucumbers, tomatoes, pepper and delicious spicy red sauce. My record was 6 in one day (haha!). I also made sure to try vegetarian pho and enjoy as many fresh spring rolls as possible, of course with homemade peanut sauce. Overall, the culinary experience proved to be, what I consider, more healthy then my typical diet in China eating Chinese food.
Ending thoughts:
This summer I will be doing a limited tour of Southeast Asia with Mr. Mason Schoen and will surely be re-visiting Vietnam. Seeing the way the Vietnamese live and the almost unbelievable amount of happiness exuding from the common folk, Vietnam has left a great impression. Each country I visit allows me to expand my cultural awareness, patience and understanding. If I have relearned anything from the Vietnamese it is to not take life too seriously, and to enjoy the present moment. The hostel in Hue had a shirt that read:
"Don't take life too seriously, it isn't permanent."
Thanks for reading!